Florence 2008

What to see and where to eat.

	Galleria dell'Accademia Via Ricasoli, 60

Oliandolo Via Ricasoli, 38-40R Tel: 055-211-296 Now open for lunch & dinner; closed Sunday Start with the marinated eggplant. You can dine on crostini, small toasts with various toppings, and your choice of several pastas. Small sandwiches, cheeses, and salami and prosciutto make a perfect meal accompanied by great wines by the glass. Be sure to have a slice of Beppe's cheesecake for dessert; it's the best! The afternoon is the best time to avoid the crowds at Michelangelo's David and at Oliandolo. Visit the museum first and plan to arrive at Oliandolo after the lunch rush subsides around 2:30. It's more relaxed then and the service can be more attentive.

Gelateria Carabé (Sicilian ice cream parlor) Via Ricasoli, 60R Tel: 055-289-476 A real treat! Granite, Cassate Siciliane, and other specialties (Brioche -- Sicilian ice cream sandwiches!) brought to you by Antonio and Loredana Lisciandro. Be sure to try one of Loredana's Cannoli Siciliani! The freshest and best you've ever tasted! Also try the lemon granita with raspberry or any of their no-guilt creamless ice creams! They only use the finest and freshest ingredients. I love their pistachio, hazelnut, and almond ice creams. Don't miss their web site which offers a printable coupon worth an upgrade on a cone or cup! If you're at the Tuscany beach, visit their new location in Forte dei Marmi.

Cappelle Medicee Piazza di Madonna degli Aldobrandi, 6
Trattoria de Sergio Piazza San Lorenzo, 8R Tel: 055-281-941 Closed Sunday. When I'm not at Mario's for lunch, I'm here. One of my husband's favorite places to eat. Everything is good. Another family run trattoria, but this time two large dining rooms and table clothes! I love the roast pork called arista, heavy with rosemary and garlic. Like Mario's, the menu changes daily. It's written outside of the door and your waiter will recite it to you quickly. But it's easier to just look at what others are eating and point! Come hungry! Breaking News! They are now open Friday nights and serving fabulous fish! Trattoria Antellesi Via Faenza, 9R Tel: 055-216-990 Closed Tuesday Recently taken over by new owners, Antellesi is still popular! I need to return and try it again, but have received great feedback from those who have been! Antica Sosta degli Aldobrandi Piazza Madonna, 6R Located directly in front of the Medici Chapel, a perfect spot for a break. Caffè, cappuccino, or glass of wine with a sandwich or a sweet.
Palazzo Vecchio Piazza della Signoria Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori Via dei Magazzini, 3R Tel: 055-293-045 Web The owner is like an old style oste or "innkeeper" from the original osteria's of medieval times. He can be a little gruff at times. But this tiny winebar is the place for a light meal! He offers an incredible menu of wonderful antipasti. You may not be able to decide. Don't! Have some of everything! This is a great place to enjoy the local color. Gelateria Le Carrozza Near the Ponte Vecchio What better place to have a light lunch or meal than at an ice cream parlor! Located just on the Duomo side of the Ponte Vecchio, this is one of my favorite traditional ice cream parlors. Moreover, it has a small dining menu too. The banana splits are a big favorite here! By the way, Marco Polo did not bring the banana split to Italy. The banana split was invented in 1904 at Strickler's Drug Store in Pennsylvania. Rivoire Piazza Signoria, 3R Tel: 055-293-045 Closed Sunday A historic bar, chocolate factory. In the winter, try the Florentine hot chocolate; it's more like pudding than hot chocolate. The desserts are also great and a gift of chocolates from Rivoire is always well received. If you sit down to enjoy a cocktail or sandwich outside, bring all your postcards to write. Sitting down at this type of bar carries an outrageous surcharge! A coffee outside is three times the cost of a coffee standing at the bar. If you choose to sit, take your time and enjoy your space; you've paid for it and no one will ask you to leave.
Mercato di San Lorenzo Open 7 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Saturday DiVino Via Taddea, 8 Next to Botticelli Hotel I am a lucky woman! My friend Stefano Poggesi and his sister Patrizia have opened a vino sfuso shop on my street. BYOB! Bring your own bottle and fill it up with fabulous wines at a fraction of the cost of bottled wines. vino sfuso, or bulk wine, is how locals used to buy wine when I moved to Florence 20 years ago. One would load up the car with 50-liter demijohns and head out on a quest. Now the tradition is back without the need to go to the countryside; you can now buy right here in downtown Florence! By buying in bulk, you aren't paying for the bottles, labels, corks, and marketing it takes to sell wine with distributors. Da Nerbone Inside the Mercato di San Lorenzo Tel: 055-219-949 Open for lunch only Opened in 1865 within the new Mercato Centrale, Nerbone is still going strong. Any time of day, you'll be rubbing elbows with truck drivers, bankers, shop keepers, and students. There are only five tables! However, that doesn't stop anyone from eating. Just grab your glass of wine and belly up to the bar. This is a great place for trying a single dish, especially home-style pastas, soups, and stews. Nerbone is owned by the owners of the famous Vecchia Bettola. They recently opened a second Nerbone in the main square in Greve in Chianti. Pany Da Lory Di Maestri Lorena Inside the Mercato di San Lorenzo Tel: 055-216-071 Web site When I tire of unsalted Tuscan bread and need some flavorful fun breads, I go to Lory! Lory is from northern Italy where the variety of breads is fabulous. Her stand in the central market is filled with great breads--whole wheat. pumpkin, rye, and many more. Her small baguettes are perfect for a picnic. Ask for a sample. She is a ray of sunshine and loves her job and it shows! She also sells fresh pasta, cookies, breadsticks, and sometimes cheeses from Alto Adige where she is from! Tell her you read about her on Divina Cucina and she will give you a discount! She also delivers, if you are lucky enough to live here! Fiaschetteria-Trattoria Mario Via Rosina, 2R Behind Mercato di San Lorenzo in the Piazza Mercato Centrale Tel: 055-218-550 Open for lunch only One of my favorites! A must for anyone visiting Florence! Mario is only open for lunch, Monday through Saturday. There is always a line! To avoid the line, come before noon before the locals arrive. Try the Zuppa di Verdura, vegetable soup served with a slice of toasted bread on the bottom. This is the place to try the famous Florentine steak. It's a two pound t-bone cooked rare. It will melt in your mouth! And don't forget the french fries; they're not frozen. Try the daily specials. I love the Braciole in Salsa offered up on Wednesdays and the fish dishes on Fridays. The food is a great bargain, so splurge on a bottle of great wine, such as Castello di Ama or Brolio. Pepó Via Rosina, 4-6R Behind Mercato di San Lorenzo in the Piazza Mercato Centrale Tel: 055-283-259 Closed Sunday Web site Next door to Mario is a hidden surprise--Pepó, a lovely small trattoria. The new decor is warm and inviting. The staff is lovely, the food great, and they offer a nice house wine by Zanobini! It has become my new local dinner spot! I usually start with the coccoli, a Florentine specialty of fried bread with a creamy cheese and prosciutto. Everything here is great! Tripe Stand at Central Market Via dell'Ariento & Via San Antonio In front of the Mercato Centrale Beatrice Trambusti runs this Florentine tripe stand. She serves great "lampredotto" sandwiches! I always get mine with her great chili sauce and the bread dipped. In the winter she also offers several typical Florentine stews. Casa del Vino (wine bar) Via dell'Ariento, 16R Near the Mercato di San Lorenzo (Mercato Centrale) Tel: 055-215-609 Web site This is one of the oldest wine bars in Florence; it's housed in an antiques shop from the 1880s. Run by his family that reopened it after the war, Gianni has an incredible selection of wines, priced for Italians. He is my wine god, carefully pairing wonderful wines to our class menus, often demanding that we change an ingredient to show off the wine to its best. Gianni has taken his father Bruno's old wine bar (Bruno passed away last summer) and taken it to new heights. You can still get a gottino of the house wine (the old tumbler traditionally served in a winebar), or try a Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, or Chianti Classico Riserva while you nibble way and peruse the shelves loaded with some of Italy's treasures! Downstairs in Gianni's secret domain, the cellars hide magnums and some of the best wines which only the best clients get. Guess who's on that list? Pork's Inside the Mercato di San Lorenzo Open for lunch only This is a must on my walking tour. Let Mamma Benita and her sons Luigi and Filippo take care of you with wonderful Sicilian home cooking. Opened in 1989, and in a newly restored space, they serve hot pasta alongside marinated and grilled vegetables, special sandwiches, and roast pork sandwiches. My favorite dish is a savory Sicilian "french toast" made with crumbled bread soaked in milk and seasoned with Pecorino Romano cheese and wild herbs, fried, and served warm. They're open for breakfast, lunch, and snacks until 2 p.m. when the market closes. Friday is fish day. On Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturday, try the lasagne made with Benita's hand-rolled pasta. Enjoy wine by the glass! My favorite is the prosecco, a sparkling white wine, on tap next to the Coca-Cola! Ristorante I' Toscano Via Guelfa,70R Tel: 055-215-475 Closed Tuesday A family run ristorante near the Mercato Central with great food and good service. Alessandro Valentini and his lovely daughter Camilla opened I'Toscano in 1989; it's located in front of the old Tuscan cigar manufacturing plant. I like the do-it-yourself crostini; they serve you toasted bread with three toppings as a starter. It's one of the few places in Florence where you can try peposo, the famous Renaissance pepper stew. Their recipe for the dish uses whole peppercorns, which are not to be eaten, creating a less spicy sauce than the classic Impruneta version. The menu changes with the seasons. Desserts are made on the premises; their tiramisu is incredible. Good tourist menu too. Nicer than a trattoria and not expensive. i'tozzo di...pane Via Guelfa,94/r Tel: 055-475-753 Closed Sunday & Monday lunch Reservations recommended in the summer Cousins Andrea and Antonio Tozzetti opened this lovely trattoria last year. The kitchen is run by the mothers and wives; it's a real family affair. Lovingly decorated, great menu, and a fabulous back garden for summer dining. The "tozze di pane" are square bruschette served warm with a choice of toppings. There is a menu of great salads and pastas as well as light main courses. Desserts are by mom! Trattoria Zà-Zà Mercato di San Lorenzo (Mercato Centrale) Tel: 055-21-54-11 Closed Sundays except last Sunday of the month One of the famous old-style trattoria. Great Tuscan soups and pastas, crostone (large slices of Tuscan bread with toppings), and huge salads! Save room for the fabulous desserts and see if you can get some of their homemade grappa. They offer a great fixed price menu. Civaiolo Via Taddea Just down the street from my studio is Civaiolo, a real mom & dad shop that has a little of everything! Specializing in herbs, beans, rice, and grains, Stefano's shop also carries great functional kitchen items--cheese graters, mezzalune, Tuscan tostapane, and wooden gnocchi ridgers. A must visit! Zanobini Via Sant'Antonino 47r Tel: 055-239-6850 Closed Sundays Zanobini is the epitome of an "old family" establishment. Everyone is related and they produce their own reasonably priced wine. You can stop by for a glass or a bottle. They offer a large selection, but I prefer the house labels because they are more interesting and less predictable. Their olive oil is great too! Antica Pasticceria Sieni Via S. Antonino 54r Tel: 055-213-830 Sieni is located on the corner of Via Sant'Antonino and Via del Ariento. Here the world passes by, from local shop owners in the street market to bankers and doctors! They have just redone the space adding a dining room in the back with a fabulous buffet. They serve my favorite Illy Coffee, great pastries, and cocktails! There's something here for everyone! Forno di Ivana Bruschi Via del Ariento, 21R Open all day! Ivana's bakery bread shop is one of my favorites! Not only does she have a fabulous selection of breads from all over Italy, her soft foccaccia, schiacciata morbida, is incredible. This is the place to get slices of filled schiacchiata for lunch or a fabulous bruschetta as well as cookies and pastries to munch on all day! You will have to fight the crowds to get in this tiny shop, but you will be glad you did!
Santa Croce Piazza Santa Croce Vestri Borgo Albizi, 11r Tel: 055-234-0374 There's trouble in town...a real chocolate maker has arrived. This is what I've been waiting for! There are incredible filled chocolates with flavors like Earl Grey, chili pepper, and liquor ganaches. There are also chocolate-covered orange slices, apricots, ice creams, and hot chocolate with or without chili! It's a good thing Vestri is across town from me! Leonardo's father began in Arezzo in 1966, where they have a large modern shop outside the city. We have a real treasure in Florence now. Try my version of Cioccolato Caldo Vestri! I dolci di Patrizio Cosi Borgo Albizi, 11 When I lived on Via Ghibellina, we were just blocks from this fabulous pastry shop! Now that I live across town, whenever I am in the neighborhood, Patrizio Cosi is high on my list of snack places. After all, one must keep up their strength while walking in Florence. It is great stop all day for dessert, sandwiches, cappuccino, or Campari soda! The space is tight, so you will be rubbing elbows, and sometimes other parts, in order to enjoy this famous pastry maker's goods. Osteria dei Pazzi Via dei Lavatoi, 1/3R Corner Via Verdi Tel: 055-234-4880 Reservations suggested, even at lunch Closed Monday The Pazzi were a famous family in the Renaissance, but "pazzi" also means crazy! Paolo Paroli, your host and chef, is crazy about food. He abandoned a teaching career to follow his passion and this wonderful restaurant is the result. He is the epitome of the old-style Florentine "oste"--joking and yelling, almost giving you a show with your meal. Fun and English are spoken here! Traditional Tuscan food prepared with care--crostini, bruschetta, spaghetti con polpo pestato, pasta with rugola, ecc. His goal is to build a clientele of Florentines, so you know the food must be good. The atmosphere is great fun. La Pentola dell'Oro (Alessi) Via di Mezzo, 24-26R Tel: 055-241-808 Closed Sunday Alessi is a private club several blocks from Santa Croce. Guisseppe Alessi with his wife and son create food that delight and fascinate Florentines. He considers himself more of an alchemist than a chef, and the emulsions he creates are magical. He's a philosopher in the kitchen; if you can understand Italian, you will be able to appreciate the research he puts into modern interpretations of antique recipes. He's famous for his rendition of Brunelleschi's Peposo, a beef stew rich with pepper. He even works with wineries to create wines that are right for his dishes. Everything at Alessi is incredible except the bill which is low! You can find some of his recipes here. Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87R Tel: 055-242-777 Closed Sunday, Monday, and Wednesday lunch It's taken me 16 years to eat here! A tasting menu here will run you € 200 and up to € 500 per person if you go for the full wine treatment that is known to make wine lovers weep! Enoteca Pinchiorri is one of the food temples of Italy. It's owned by Anne Feolde and her husband Giorgio Pinchiorri who work very hard to keep it on the top. Both of their children have joined them in this incredible endeavor. The food is fabulous and the wine list endless! I was lucky enough to be invited to dinner. We drank two bottles of 1988 Pergole Torte, an incredible wine produced by Sergio Mannetti of MonteVertine winery. In the summer, Pinchiorri's beautiful inner courtyard becomes the dining room. Lunch offers a light menu; it's also lighter on your pocketbook. Desserts are incredible! In addition to your dessert order, you're given a tray of tiny pastries and sorbets in handmade cones served in a crystal and sterling silver holder. Save room! Enoteca Boccadama (wine bar) Piazza Santa Croce, 25-26 Tel: 055-243-640 Closed Monday There's a new trend in Florence-the upscale wine bar. It's not your old-style vinaio where you belly up to the bar and have a gottino (shot glass) of red with a rustic sandwich of finocchiona (a Tuscan fennel salami, like sausage in texture). At Boccadama, you sit in a newly decorated room, and select from a vast selection of wines by the glass (served in real wine glasses!), and a menu of small salads, salamis, cheeses, smoked meats, and fish. There are even some hot dishes.
Mercato San Ambrogio When Italy was united in 1860 and in 1864, Florence was cleaned up in order to be the capital of the Italian kingdom. Three markets were built--the largest, Mercato Centrale, in San Lorenzo, not far from the old market in Piazza Republica; San Ambrogio, in the Pratolinian district near Santa Croce; and, San Frediano, on the other side of the Arno River. The market at San Frediano no longer exists. San Ambrogio was the fruit and vegetable market until 1955 when the large wholesale market was built on the outskirts of the city. Today, the inside of the market is dedicated to meats, fish, and cheese, and it sports a great little restaurant, Rocco. Outdoors, under a roof extension, fruit and vegetable stands are intermingled with plants, fresh flowers, and household items. You can even find farmers selling their products on the far side of the market. Tavola Calda da Rocco Mercato di San Ambrogio Open for lunch only Uncomfortable tables; however, when you eat the food and see the bill, it's all worth it! You can also get food to go at Rocco! One of the fun experiences of being in Florence is to eat in a market. Don't miss Rocco! Il Cibrèo Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8R Tel: 055-234-11-00 Fax: 055-24-49-66 Closed Sunday & Monday Reservations a must at the restaurant! Cibrèo is a gastronomic oasis, combining an elegant restaurant with a trattoria at its back door that share the same kitchen, and an exciting bar across the street. Cibrèo's front room offers a memorable dining experience. Fabio Picchi, the owner, does not believe in serving pasta as a first course. However, with the heavenly dishes he offers in its place, you won't miss it. I adore the potato sformato with ragu, the pureed yellow pepper soup, and the polenta with herbs. Let the staff help you order; you're in good hands. Cibrèo Trattoria, also known as the sala dei poveri (the poor room), serves a smaller selection of the same food. No table clothes or stemmed glassware, and you won't see Fabio near your table. It's excellent food for one-third the price of the main restaurant! Also closed Sunday and Monday. Gilda Bistrot Piazza Ghiberti, 40-41R Tel: 055-234-3885 Closed Sunday This tiny bistro is filled with antiques -- it was an antique furniture shop before Gilda turned it into her bistro with her son William. Tiny tables, old theatre seats, mismatched glasses, and vintage tablecloths and placemats create a unique dining room. Gilda herself waits on customers. Typical dishes, not only Tuscan, are reasonably priced, and the menu changes often. There is a table for 6 in the cantina that's perfect for a special dinner with friends. Gilda's desserts are incredible!
The Duomo Procacci Via Tornabuoni, 64R Tel: 055-211-656 Located on Florence's most famous shopping street, Procacci remains the only original shop on the street. Opened in 1885 by Sig. Procacci, it is now owned by the Antinori family who have maintained the shop as it was intended. It's a favorite stop for a tiny bite. Most people get a glass of prosecco and one of the famous truffle sandwiches. If you are hungry, you'll need several! For wine lovers, check out the prices of some of the Antinori wines. They are generally less here than in other shops! Also a great place for picking up some wonderful speciality food items. Trattoria Croce al Trebbio Via Delle Belle Donne, 47-49R Tel: 055-28-7089 Hidden away between Piazza Santa Maria Novella and Via Tornabuoni, Trattoria Croce al Trebbio has always been a favorite of mine. It's simple Tuscan food prepared well. They have incredible mozzarella! The antipasto plate is wonderful, so go here for one of your complete Tuscan meals! Great prices too. It is very attractive inside. In nice weather, they take over the small piazza and fill it with tables. (Look up and you will see the Croce.) Grom Via delle Oche 24R on the corner of Via del Campanile Web Torino's most famous gelateria has opened in Florence! Just one block from the Duomo, it is a must for connosieurs. Grom uses milk from small producers as well as organic eggs and Slow Food products such as Amalfi's lemons, hazelnuts from the Langhe, and pistachios from Bronte in Sicily near Mount Etna. Seasonal flavors during grand opening month (May 2005) included a pear sorbet with Venezualan chocolate chips (chocolate from Guido Gobino, one of Torino's best), as well as their own version of cookies n' cream and Crema di Grom with a special cornmeal cookie broken into the cream-flavored gelato. Coffee lovers should not miss the Gelato di Caffè made with Guatemalan coffee! What delights will future months bring? Coquinarius Via delle Oche,15R Tel: 055-23-02-153 Closed on Sunday (except when they close Florence to traffic on Sundays once a month); Winter open Sunday for brunch A new enoteca/caffè. Hidden off the main street of Via Calzaiuoli, this is a nice escape from the hustle and bustle of Florence. Open from 9:00 until late at night, you can have breakfast, lunch, snacks, and dinner! Pastas are light and lovely. Salads are a full meal. Save room for their warm chocolate cake! The enoteca offers a fine selection of Italian, Austrian, Chilean, Argentine, and California wines. Cantinetta Antinori Piazza Antinori, 3 Tel: 055-292-234 Closed Saturday, Sunday & August. The Antinori family, one of Florence's oldest wine-making dynasties, has a fabulous restaurant in the family villa in central Florence. It features their wines in a simple yet elegant location. The service is excellent and has always been a favorite for a relaxed meal. Don't miss the fascinating inner courtyard display of miniatures of the Antinori properties. They have just opened the Osteria di Passignano at the winery at Badia a Passignano, in the village of Tavarnelle. Again, it's elegant but not fussy. I'll try it soon. Watch for my review. Bizzarri Via della Condotta, 32R Tel: 055-211-580 A great shop that looks like something from Merlin! I go here to purchase essences and special cooking spices for my cooking. Their truffle (tartufo), blended with softened butter, will make some great pasta sauces and risotti. Migone Via dei Calzailuoli, 85-87R Tel: 055-214-004 Closed Sunday & Monday. Florence's most traditional candy store! A must for gifts for the foodies in your life! Here's where brides get the little gifts with the wonderful sugared almonds of Sulmona for their guests. Panforte, riccarelli, a chocolate orange sweet, and much more. Everything is beautifully wrapped in Florentine paper. You can even get sweets packaged in a Duomo-shaped box! Caffé Italiano Via della Condotta, 56R Owned by Umberto Montana of Alle Murate fame. You can eat here at all hours of the day. Breakfast, lunch buffet, tea, and afternoon snacks. It features an ever-changing menu; food items are prepared at Alle Murate, and the incredible desserts are made on the premises. Perchè no! Gelateria Via dei Tavolini Opposite Cantinetta dei Verrazzano (next listing) One of my favorite ice cream parlors just got a face lift! I was worried that there was a new owner; however, no fear. Same people, same young smiling servers, same incredible gelato! This is where my husband Andrea goes for semifreddo ("almost cold") which he prefers to gelato ("frozen"). Semifreddo's are flavored whipped creams that melt in your mouth! They have a new flavor, Miele e Sesamo, honey and sesame. The combination reminds me of the tender sesame brittle I've had in Greece. Cantinetta dei Verrazzano Via dei Tavolini, 18-20 Tel: 055-268-590 Open 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. (July & August 3 p.m.). Closed Sunday. In 1992, Antoinetta Bagnoli opened the Cantinetta, for the first time uniting the Castello dei Verrazzano winery in Chianti with the Florentine bakery, Il Fornaio, and the salami's from Falorni in Greve. Her concept is fabulous! It's one of my favorite places to take a break almost any time of the day. Half the shop is an elegant wine bar with no surcharge for sitting. It serves only wines from Verrazzano, breads from Il Fornaio, and salami from Falorni. Tasting plates are available. The other side is more of a cafe, offering juice, coffee, sandwiches, and focaccia made in their woodburning oven. To finish a meal, order some biscotti and vin santo or a great grappa and cookies. Tripe Stand Another chance to try the famous Florentine tripe sandwich. Easy to find in front of the American Express offices on Via Dante Alighieri. While you're in the neighborhood, don't miss Casa degli Alighieri, a reconstruction of the house in which Dante may have been born. Via Santa Margherita, 1, Tel: 055-21-94-16. Fiaschetteria "I Fratellini" Via dei Cimatori, 38R Probably the smallest wine bar in Florence. Opened in 1875, it's one of the most fun! Locals refer to it by the nickname "I Gemellini". Push your way up to the bar (say "Permesso" as you pass), and order one of the wines they've opened for sampling. Choose something from their menu, a crostini or sandwich, and work your way back out onto the street. Fortunately, there's no traffic and you can enjoy the scene. In the bar, there's a wooden glass holder on the wall where you can rest your glass while eating. Spaces are numbered to help you remember which is yours! When you're done, head back up the block to Perché No ice cream parlor on Via Tavolini. Robiglio Via dei Servi, 112 One of the best pastry shops in Florence. Stand up with your cappuccino and a wonderful breakfast sweet.
Church of Santa Maria Novella Piazza Santa Maria Novella & Points West Trattoria Garga Via del Moro, 48 Tel: 055-239-8898 One of Florence's artsy hangouts. The interior has been decorated by Guiliano Gargani and his Canadian-born wife, Sharon Oddson. It's a frenzy of surrealist images and color and the food reflects the artistic touches. It's a favorite with Americans and Florentines. Great food in a fun atmosphere. Click here to visit their web site. Buca Lapi Via del Trebbio, 1R Tel: 055-213-768 Closed Sunday, Monday lunch & August. Buca Lapi is one of the oldest restaurants in Florence. There is no question that it is an Institution! It's in the basement of a building (buca: "hole") that is part of the Antinori's Florentine villa. They offer very traditional Florentine food--a must for a full dinner. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina and veal dishes are fabulous! Trattoria delle Belledonne Via delle Belledonne, 16R Tel: 055-238-2609 Closed Saturday night and Sunday & August. This old wine bar turned trattoria is hidden just off Via Tornabuoni, the big shopping street. Their tiny door seems to open up into something from a movie. The fabulous display of fruits and vegetables, the ceramic-tiled tables, all set the scene for Florence's version of a bistot. It was once a well kept secret, but has been overrun with Americans since being featured in Bon Appetit magazine. The menu is written on a blackboard in Italian. This is a real osteria where the menu is explained to you by the host. Popular with locals, it can be difficult to eat here, but have patience and you will be rewarded. The raw zucchini and avocado salad and the marinated eggplant salad with tomatoes and meatballs are great. I will return soon to try this season's best and let you know! Il Latini Via dei Palchetti, 6R (off Via del Moro, near the Arno) Tel: 055-210-916 Closed Monday. Eating at Il Latini is like being in a Fellini film. Come hungry and let them take care of you. Often you won't even see a menu, just say "Basta!" when you are full! An institution in Florence where tradition rules-Pappa al pomodoro, ribollita, as a well as great grilled meats. It is a fabulous meal as well as entertaining! It is hard to find but worth the search.
Oltrarno--Beyond the Arno Palazzo Pitti, Galleria Palatina, Giardino di Boboli, San Miniato al Monte, Santa Maria del Carmine, Santo Spirito, San Frediano, San Nicolò Trattoria La Casalinga Via dei Michelozzi, 9R Tel:055-218-624 Closed Sunday. Located on a small street that leads into Piazza Santo Spirito, this is one of the most traditional trattoria's in Florence. Open for lunch and dinner, this is the Mario's of San Frediano! It's one of the few places where you can still find lasagna on the menu. Real home cooking! Popular with locals and foreign students in the know--great food at incredibly low prices. Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco Borgo San Jacopo, 43R Tel: 055-215.706 Closed Wednesday dinner. This lovely family run restaurant set in a medieval tower specializes in wild boar, but also offers a large menu of traditional Tuscan dishes. Lovely ambience, helpful waiters, and a nice mix of locals and tourists. One of my favorites. Reservations a must! Al Tranvai (trattoria) Piazza Torquato Tasso, 14R San Frediano Tel: 055-225.197 A true treasure! A family-run tiny trattoria just inside the walls of the city. Piazza Tasso is the heart of San Frediano and Al Tranvia is the heart of Piazza Tasso. It's one of the few places where you can still eat inexpensivly and well. They have a nice small crostini plate, lots of vegetarian meals, as well as a great selection of cooked vegetables. Tradition rules here! Ribollita, tripe, a melted pecorino fondue, pecorino sfuso, and sedano rifatto, or small celery "meatballs" breaded and lightly fried, served in a tomato sauce. Save room here for Yolanda's fabulous desserts-she has a torta dei fichi (fig walnut and fennel cake), and one of the best crème caramels in Florence. On my last visit I skipped the pasta and had a fried Taleggio cheese followed by a spinach "meatball" seasoned with Parmesan and truffles! Il Cantinone Via San Spirito, 6R Tel:055-225-955 Closed Monday. A classic for traditional Tuscan fare. Here wine is the feature (there is no house wine), because Cantinone is really more of an enoteca, or wine cantina with great food to show off the wine. Crostini, soups, fresh pasta...it's all here. Steep stairs take you downstairs past the wine cellar into the underground cantina restaurant. One of the first places I ate in Florence and still fun to return to! Trattoria Sabatino Via Pisana, 2R Tel:055-218-898 Closed Monday. When my husband first took me to Sabatino, I felt like I was stepping back in time. Pale green walls, single gentlemen eating at tables, low prices-a soup was 3,350 lire! That was over 17 years ago. Things have changed some. They have moved down the street and modernized, but great simple food, and some of the same clients, have not changed! This is where you eat if your mother isn't home! It is right at the Porta di San Frediano as you are leaving the downtown. Quite easy to find. All'Antico Ristoro di'Cambi Via San Onorfrio, 1R Tel: 055-217-134 Closed on Sunday. Reservations suggested. In San Frediano, this trattoria is an institution. This is where my husband's father would go for a glass of wine and a light snack. Needless to say, Andrea loves the place. Open for both lunch and dinner, Cambi is now run by the sons of the original owners. And, they're running it in the same manner that their fathers did! Simple good food! The glass showcase at the front, filled with the season's specialties, will get your appetite going. Look for artichokes in the spring and porcini in fall. Their steak (bistecca fiorentina) is great ! This is one of the places I love to do the full cucina toscana meal starting with the chicken liver crostini, followed by pasta, then a shared steak, and finishing the meal off with dessert! It offers a wonderful evening in a family atmosphere, filled with locals and tourists alike. Cavolo Nero Via dell'Ardiglione, 22R Tel: 055-29-47-44 Closed Sunday and 2 weeks in August. Located just off of Via de'Serragli near Piazza del Carmine, this is a hidden treasure. Traditional Tuscan food revisited...with a twist. When you want something nicer that a little funky trattoria, this is the place for you. Simple,elegant, and very popular with the Florentines. Great wine list too! In nice weather they have dining in the back garden. Pitti Gola e Cantina (wine bar) Piazza Pitti, 16 Tel: 055-21-27-04 A great place for a snack or light meal with a glass of wine. Sabina, Giancarlo, and their son offer wonderful grilled vegetables, terrines, salamis, and Italian cheeses to enjoy with a nice selection of wines by the glass. Le volpi e l'uva (wine bar) Piazza dei Rossi, 1R Tel: 055-23-98-132 Closed Sunday. A hidden treasure just over the Ponte Vecchio, hidden off to the left past a piazza and under the arch. They offer an incredible number of wines by the glass, small tasting plates of cheeses from Italy and France, salamis, small sandwiches, pates, and sweets. This is also a wonderful place to buy wines; they specialize in wines that have a great ratio of quality to price. Say "Ciao!" to Emilio, the enologist, and Riccardo, the sommelier. Hemingway Piazza Piattellina,9R Tel: 055-284-781 Open from 6 p.m.-2 a.m. and for Sunday brunch. Now open all year! This is a chocolate lover's paradise. My friend Monica is one of the most creative and innovative Italian women I know. Hemingway is the center of all her passions, with over 300 teas, ice cream, chocolates, and chocolate desserts from the best of the Tuscany's artisans. It is also possible to have a cocktail, glass of wine, smoked salmon, Stilton cheese, a great salad, or a cappuccino. There's something for everyone. Sunday brunch is international.
Museo del Bargello Via del Proconsolo, 4 Yellow Bar Via Proconsolo, 39R Tel: 055-211-766 Closed Sunday On the top of my list for fresh pasta and pizza! Great for people watching too. In the tiny room on the left front, you can see into the kitchen where mamma is making fresh pasta for the restaurant. There is also a table in the kitchen that you can request! It is not unusual for locals to order a plate of pasta and follow it up with a pizza! Acqua al Due Via dela Vigna Vecchia, 40R Tel: 055-284-170 Dinner only; closed Monday There is always a line here; reservations are a must. Everyone orders the pasta tasting menu, called an "Assaggio di Primi," five varieties of pasta with five different sauces. The dish should be enough to fill anyone, but if not, there is also a selection of salads and desserts as well as a fabulous regular menu. The service can be rushed as they do several seatings. They've just opened an Acqua al Due in San Diego, California!

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